Hello friends,

From the child hood I had a dream of seeing Rajahamsalu. You know we have beautiful poems in Telugu. Pothana who did the translation of Bhagawatam in Telugu, wrote it in very simple beautiful Telugu, using delicate words, which creates melodious feelings in our hearts. I have read so many books in Telugu literature. And In Sanskrit the great writer Kalidas too wrote many stories where he used Rajahasalu in his poetic writings.

According to the stories these Raja hamsalu in english we call them swans have two great specialties. One is when you give milk mixed with water, it drinks only milk and leaves water. And the walking of the swan is so beautiful, all most all ancient Indian poets used to compare and describe the beauty of walking by the ladies with the walking of Raja hamsa. (now it is being called cat walk)

Now the difference between the swans and the Raja hamsa is, the Raja hamsa does have pink bark, pink ends to its wings and pink legs.

There was a beautiful poem from my 4th class which is imprinted in my mind by pothana in Bhagawatam, it starts with
Mandara Makaranda, I explain it in english but in telugu it is really a very sweet poem.

When Hiranya kashyap asks his son Prahlada not to recite the name of lord Vishnu but always recite the name of Hiranya kashyap, Prahlad says, Oh Dad, a honey bee which is habituated to drink honey from beautiful flowers can not drink honey from smell less flowers, The cuckoo which is habituated to eat fresh small leaves of mango, can not eat any other leaves, the Raja hamsa which is habituated to live in pure waters of river Mandakini in Himalayas can not live in any other small rivers without fresh waters, and the Flaming birds which enjoy the full moon light can not enjoy the solid snow even though both are white, in same way , a person who enjoys the lotus feet of Lord vishnu and thoughts of God can not enjoy any other thoughts.

This poem created a dream in my heart to see Rajahamsa. And it seems they live only at manasa sarover in Himalayas. So Westarted our planing to go to Manasa sarovar .

There is no place more powerful for practice more blessed, or more marvelous than their abode of god.

Mount Kailash, which is believed to have been formed 30 million years ago when Himalayas were in their early stage of formation, is one of the most revered places in the Himalayas.Spread out on the Tibetan plateau beside Mount Kailash is the giant lake of shifting colors - Lake Mansarovar. Brahma, the creator, had a mind (Man) for the creation of a lake (Sarovar), hence its name. A pilgrimage to Mount Kailash and a bath in the Mansarovar is believed to bring about salvation (Moksha).

I have read in books that the circumference of Mansarovar is 88-km, its depth is 90m and total area is 320-sq-kms.It seems the lake freezes in the winters and melts only in spring. It seems it looks unbelievably fascinating on moonlit nights when an ethereal ambiance pervades the atmosphere. The circumference of Rakshas Tal, also known as Ravan Kund, is 122-km. A 6-km long natural channel - Gangachhu - connects Manas with Rakshas Tal. This Takshas Tal is where Ravan in Ramayan did the tapasu ( meditate for lord shiva) hence it is called Rakshas tal.

I have further read that the high on the remote western Tibetan plateau in the northern most region of the Himalayas, sits Mount Kailash, the holy mountain. The Tibetan people have named it Kang Rinpoche, or snow jewel, and the Hindus refer to it as Mount Meru. Buddhist, Hindu and Jain pilgrims from the world over go to this holy mountain to circumambulate rather than scale the 22,028- foot high peak.

Hindus who walk around the 58-mile circumference of Mount Kailash use the term parikrama. They believe that lord Shiva, one of their three main gods, resides atop what they call Mount Meru. Tibetans refer to the clockwise circumambulation as a kora. Both words mean the same thing pilgrimage. Doing a walk around the mountain can away a lifetimes worth of sins.

Bathing in the lake, or even dousing ones head with the holy water is said to be of enormous spiritual benefit to those who can brave the icy water which many claim contain miraculous powers.Ofcourse I am going to have my bath in the lake even if it is going to freeze and Ram will object also!!!!! Hindus are told that complete immersion into the lake ensure they be reborn as a god.

Now we will be starting on 4th morning flight and will be returning on 25th to Hyderabad.We will be going to Delhi, then Nepal from there we start climbing the Himalaya mountains.
I am very much excited that I am going to see Mount Kailash, and Hopefully Rajahansalu in Manas sarovar. Hopefully we will not have snow storms while we are doing Parikrama of Mount Kailash.

It is an adventurous as well as pilgrimage tour. The highest point of the trekking will be 19000-ft high . And in the parikrama it seems the second day would be the toughest day.

To reach manas sarovar, which is in the Himalayas, and part of China, we have to pass through Nepal, Tibet and few towns of China.

So our first stop after Delhi is Nepal. Nepal is a beautiful place and is famous for Pasupathi nath temple.. The temple is a very old temple and reflects the architecture of Nepal. Very beautifully constructed with full of hand carved statues on wood, brass and stone.

The main temple is Pasupathinath, where Lord Shiva with 5 faces, four on four sides one on top is being worshiped. We have done Abhishekam there and were given Rudraksha haralu as Prasad.

Then we went to Buddha (old) Neelakanth narayans temple. Here the statue is a mixture of Lord Shiva and Lord Narayan, making us realize that there is no difference between them and both are one and the same. The statue is very beautiful and is in the water.
It seems the statue is more than 1600 years old.

Then we have visited Dakshina Kali, where Ashta matrukalu are being worshiped. The temple even though is very small, is power full being one of the Shakti peeth. The travel from Nepal to, Dakshina kali took an hour time by road, as the temple is in a valley, the travel was very enjoyable!

And as far as shopping part is concern, I did purchase few Nepali carvings in brass and silver which they said are of antique pieces.

The next day we started our journey to cross the borders of Nepal for entering into China.

After visiting Nepal, the time has come for us to move FW to the Nepal and China boarders. In fact our journey towards mountains started on that day. After traveling for 4 hours we have reached the borders of China where we were to get immigration clearance to enter into china. The town is called Nyalam.

The travel from Nepal to Nyalam was very thrilling. High mountains, full of greenery and pure water falls, making us wonder whether was it water that was falling from mountains or the milk form Ksheera sagar. Lovely scenic beauty. It was just out of this world.

As the immigration clearance took lot of time we had to stay put at Nyalam for that night. Then next morning we have started our journey into Himalayas. We stayed at Nyalam for a day to acclimatization. From Nyalam the tour management started giving some tablets, which were supposed to prevent us from getting mountain sickness. As far as Ram was concerned he did not have any problem, but for me they started water retention in the body. But they have insisted us to take those tabs.

Next day from Nyalam we have started our journey into deep Himalayas. The travel was very comfortable as we were traveling in Land cruisers.
I have seen Grand Canyon which is also natural rock formation. But there is lot of difference between Himalayas and Grand Canyon.

There are so many verities of mountains; its an amazing natural formation of nature. So many colors. You see many colors in flowers but in Himalayas the rocks are colorful. From Nyalam to Saga you dont find any greenery, or water falls. I felt as if we were traveling in Rajasthan deserts. Full of sand and Rocky Mountains. The beauty of rock formation was so beautiful; I wondered how is it possible to create so many colorful rock mountains for God!

We were traveling at the height of 1600ft to reach Saga. And reached saga the next day after traveling to the height of 17000ft where we have passed Brahmaputra at Lalungla pass. The sudden change in heights made many people sick. On 5th day of our travel through Himalayas we had our first Darshan of mount Kailash.

It was so beautiful; I have lost myself in the beauty of mount Kailash.

The wonderful, beautiful moment was so sacred and it filled my eyes with tears of joy. I felt my dream came true.
What more any one can want? Do you know what; all the other mountains surrounding mount Kailash are of Rocky Mountains, and in the middle mount Kailash was shining like a silver star!

On 7th day of our tour from Saga we have traveled further to reach Manas Sarovar. By 4pm we have reached to Manas sarovar.

I was so much excited I was not able to wait to get into waters. Ram was warning me that waters will be ice cold! But I was not in a position to listen to him.

At Himalayas near Manas sarovar you do not have any hotels. So the Sherpas who were coming with us to prepare food and to provide comforts were busy in erecting tents for us. So I told Ram that by the time the tents were made ready we can have a dip in the sarovar. So I ran into waters, OMG I was shocked!

Ram was right after all! The waters were ice cold! But as I have decided to have a dip I went into sarovar as Jhansi Lakshmi Bai and started shivering. Then Ram came after me, he dragged me deep into the waters and told me to take a dip with him. And he made me to take a dip forcefully, and after the first dip the cold vanished and it was fun!

While we were taking the dip in the sarovar, exactly opposite us the Mount Kailash standing, and I felt as if Lord Shiva with Parvathi were blessing us from Kailash, and we are drenching with their blessings and being purified with the Manas sarovar waters.

The weather was cold. The high winds were chilly. But I did not want to come out of the waters, but Ram dragged me out of the waters. Then we went to the tents. I was excited to go into the tent because it was the first time I ever lived in a tent. But Alas! I could not walk into the tent. I had to crawl into the tent and I felt very uncomfortable. But still it was a novelty for me. And I had to change my dress but I was not able to stand in the tent for change of dress. But except me all the other people including Ram were changing their dresses in the tents only. But I came out of the tent, and gone to the tent which was erected for dinning purpose, and changed my dress.

By then it was night time and hot soup and kichidi was provided for our dinner. The food was piping hot but as there were no toilet facilities I did not take any food.
Here I have to tell you about Sherpas.

Sherpas are the Tibetan team of workers who accompany us through out the tour, cook for us hot food, provide us tents, and help us to complete our tour without any problems. They speak English and Hindi. They provide us with tremendous service. When it was great effort for us to even move few ft and do our own works, those Sherpas do every thing for us. I felt many times they were equal to God!

The night we spent at the banks of river manas sarovar is un beleivably beautiful experience.

It was chili night. The winds were high and we were shivering. But as it was full moon night, I wanted to stay awake and see the moon, and mount kailash and Manas sarovar in moon light.

The belief of Hindus is that on moon light all the gods and Goddess certainly come down to Manas sarovar to have a dip, and even though we can not see them, the vibrations we may feel, and even if we dont feel those vibrations, their vibrations may surround us and make us purified. Hence the full moon night is very important and once in life time experience none of us are ready to miss it.

So all of us were sitting and watching for the moon to come up. There was some discussion between us. Is it better to be silent or, is it better to sing bhajans to please lord Shiva. So I have suggested, till 12 midnight let us sing, and at midnight stop singing and just meditate. Let us all wait for experiencing those sacred vibrations. Every one agreed for that.

All of us sat and waiting for the moon and were singing bhajans. But instead of moon the clouds started coming and we were not able to see mount Kailash at all. All of us felt disappointed, but still did not loose hopes. Kept on singing. Then slowly clouds cleared, moon came out and in the full moon light the Mount Kailash started shining like a silver mount! The beauty of mount Kailash was so wonderful one needs 1000 eyes to enjoy that. What a beautiful moment. The clear waters of Manas sarovar in moon light, and the beauty of Mount Kailash, the silence, the serenity, the feeling of sacredness created many emotions in every one present there.

I felt for this life I can not ask more happiness than the happiness I have experienced at that moment. It was almost 3am and every one gone inside their tents silently not disturbing each other. Myself and Ram too gone to our tents. Ram gone into sleep but I was not able to sleep, so slowly without disturbing Ram, I went again near Manas Sarovar. I was just walking on the banks of the river looking at Manas sarovar. The waters were calm; the atmosphere was peaceful though the weather was chili. I saw few swans coming towards the banks slowly in a group! I was stunned, and pleasantly shocked. I stood still.

There were 5 swans together and slowly they swam towards the banks and then slowly moved away from the banks again Then again another group came .this time there were 10 swans. They too slowly had gone. Then came 2 swans, may be they were in love because they were playing with each other. Then slowly they moved away! All together I have observed them nearly 20 to 30 min, to be honest I lost count of the time, I was not in this world at all. Even though my dream and goal of going to Manas sarovar is for looking Raja hamsalu, I did not really expect to see them. OMG My dream came true and I was in trance for the time I spent looking at those beautiful swans! Once they disappeared I came to my tent and as soon as I have entered the tent, I started shivering so much, it was uncontrollable and Ram got up and had to give me his sleeping bag for some time, and covered me with more blankets and it took 30 min for me to become normal, and I felt so happy and at peace with myself and with the whole world! I thanked God for making my dream come true!

On the next day that was on 9th day we started after breakfast and left Manas sarovar. I felt bad. I wanted to stay at least one more night. But we had to go according to the tour plans. On that day we did Parikrama of Manas sarovar, not by walking but by driving. And while doing parikrama of manas Sarovar we had come across Rakshas Tal, where the great Ravan from Ramayan did his Tapassu of Lord Shiva and Lord Shiva granted him his Atma linga.
The belief of Tibetans is at Rakshas Tal the Devils come and take the dip; hence we were not permitted to touch those waters. While doing Parikrama of Manas sarovar, we came across mount Kailash many times and whenever we saw mount Kailash we used to stop and took pictures, and felt very happy.
And on the way we saw a Buddhist place. In fact from out side it was looking like a dilapidated house, but inside it was decorated beautifully. And besides that there was a stream coming from Brahma Putra River, and we found lots of Golden ducks playing in the waters. Golden ducks means not real gold. The color of the ducks was golden and were looking very beautiful. The scenic beauty of the place was so good and peaceful, I did not want to leave that place. But still it was a long way to go. So we had proceeded to Darchen where we have stayed over night. This place was the base camp for the parikrama of mount Kailash.

The only problem was the camp place was very small village sort of place and no proper hotels to stay. No toilets. So the Sherpas who came with us erected a tent made a pit and put a chair sort of thing for toilet purpose and after seeing that I stopped eating food. No washing fecilities.

Next day we were to start Parikrama.
Generally what we do is , when we go to a temple, we take bath and wear fresh cloths and leave for the temple. Here we were to do parikrama of mount Kailash, the most sacred place on this earth but we were to start without washing and cleaning our selves leave alone going to toilet and cleaning inside us. OMG! I felt really bad. But there were no washing rooms. No water to wash. The tour management was providing us drinking water which in itself was great thing. They were carrying with them Bislary water for us to drink.

Any way that was the life in Himalayas and hence people there apply Vibhuthi and feel clean I suppose.

That was 10th day of our tour. We were excited that we were starting the Parikrama of Mount Kailash. The surprising thing was the Tibetans did not permit us to start our day without Breakfast and the tabs preventing us from the mountain sickness.

At one side I was excited and at one side feeling bad because without a hot bath we were to start the pari krama of Kailash. As I told I have stopped having meals, I had some energy bars, and I was taking the tabs after eating one energy bar and coffee. Without coffee I can not start my day.

From the camp base where we stayed in the night we had to go to Tarboche 10 Km away. Till there we were dropped by Land cruisers. There we find Yama dwar Once we cross that we are supposed to be in Kailash. There was a well to which we did Parikrama, and then prayed Yama to bless us, and then we went through Yama dwar and started our Parikrama. People who want to do the Parikrama by horses, horses were available. And few porters to carry our luggage too were available. And they dont carry more than 2 kg weight. As we were provided our lunch packs, containing a single sandwich, one chocolate and a soft drink. Mine, Rams and one more for the porter we have put in the back pack along with a water bottle and gave it to the porter to carry with us, and who can help us as a guide too.

By the time we have passed through Yama dwar and started Parkrama it was all most 1.00 pm. slowly we started climbing the Himalayas. There was no road. Full of stones and ups and downs. The weather was windy and chilly even though the skies were clear. The first 2 hours it was okay dokey. Then slowly it started showing its true colors. As I knew that next days parikrama was tougher I was not exerting myself more. I was walking slowly. Of course we were advised to walk slowly and one more advise we were given was, when we feel tiered and could not walk, we were to stand and take rest, but not sit for taking rest. They said if we sit, there was every possibility of going to sleep and not able to reach the next camp base. So I was walking slowly and Ram was keeping me company, and the porter was with us. Every one in our Troop over took us.

The way was tough but beautiful. There was a stream passing by. One side we were walking at the foot hills of Mount Kailash and another side highest rock mountain called Sesh nag and those mountains were really looking like 1000 heads Snake. It was 6pm started getting dark, and seeing this rock mountain, I was really afraid. I had a phobia for heights. And this highest mountain started making me nervous.

The Sherpas told us, if the porter, the Chinese boy gives us any thing eatable or to drink, not to accept because they were dangerous. The boy who was with us started showing a knife to us and started saying some thing. His language we could not understand. I thought he was threatening us to kill. Ram said, he was such a young boy, and I was unnecessarily getting afraid of that young boy that too when Ram was with me to take care of me. To be honest, still I was afraid of that boy. We were walking and walking the camp base wont come. Climbing was tough and the weather making us feel chili. We were told that it was 12Km walk, but I am sure it was more than 18Km. The going became tough and it was getting dark, I thought the camp base would never come, and then we reached the camp base.

Later we came to know that the boy was asking us to purchase his knife and was asking for money. We had a good laugh at ourselves!

I was so happy to reach the camp base which was called Diraphuk ( 16500 ft.) and completed the first day parikrama; Whole team in the tour was so friendly they kept for me the best place for my nights sleep. There were only 4 constructed rooms and all the rest were tents. So they gave me one of the best rooms available but toilet facilities just forget about them. No washrooms, no toilets. Temporarily erected tents for that purpose.

As soon as we reached the camp base Sherpas who were waiting for us served us with hot soup and I was really in need of it. Because as we were under the icy mountain of Mount Kailash it was very windy and cold. After going into the room I just collapsed on the bed and started shivering. Luckily there were plenty of Rugs and sleeping bags. So I have taken few and made myself warm. Then had my soup and was about to go to sleep. But one after another the whole tour members came to say hi and to tell me their experiences of the first day of the trekking. And suddenly it was moon light and some one showed me that I can see mount Kailash through my window at a very near distance, as if I was in the lap of mount Kailash.

The pleasant surprise was so great, the tiered ness just vanished. The beautiful mountain kailash was just like a silver mount and was creating sacred vibrations within us; one has to experience the happiness of being there.

We were placed in the camp in such a way, we were looking at mount Kailash, behind it the mount shesh nag and on top the moon. As if it is Lord shiva himself sitting and looking at us. What more one wants after seeing such a sacred beautiful natural formation?

By 10pm every one gone to sleep. But for me it took long time to get sleep because I was feeling as if I was really in Kailash and Lord Shiva was looking at me. So I did not want to sleep and miss a sec by not looking at him. Ram started warning me. If I dont sleep, it would not be possible for me to do the next day trekking which was supposed to be much more dangerous and hard and we had to pass the highest mountain.

So whole night I was sleeping for some time and suddenly was getting up and praying Lord Shiva by looking through my window. It was the happiest night in those 3 days of Parikrama of mount Kailash.

That the day was our 11th day of the tour. And we were told that unless we start at 6am it is not possible to complete that day of Parikrama and reach the camp Base for the night. So Ram was the first one who was ready and helped me to get ready. Because I was shivering with cold and it was a big thing even to go out for washing, and as I said we had to go out for washing. Of course there was no question of taking bath. Just washed my face, and Sherpas provided hot milk, and I made myself coffee. Because they were providing tea and for me morning coffee is a must. Then we were given lunch packs like the previous day, and we were on our way to the 2nd day trekking.

I came out and saw the Mount Kai lash prayed and started our FW journey. We were to pass a stream and the stream was almost ice. They have constructed a bridge sort of thing, but it was very dangerous and because few stick together made the bridge, and if you slip you would be in the chilled waters and may become snow! But Ram was with me and he helped me to cross the bridge. Then it was upwards we were to travel. 3 to 4 Km it was okay, even though the journey was climbing the hill. Slowly it became difficult. Early morning breeze was making us shiver with cold, even after wearing four layers of cloths. And lack of oxygen was making the breath difficult. I was climbing up for 30 min and resting. Suddenly it started snowing. It was very light snow initially and we started to climb a little fast. But when we started walking fast, it became more difficult. Then the snow fall became thick. As it was there was no road and the snow was so thick; we were not able to see what was ahead of us even at the distance of 10ft away from us. The porter who was with us helped us to climb in the right direction. I have lost the sensation of my body because we were walking in snow. The mountain became very steep. And at some point I felt, if just a slip of one step, we really stay at Kailash permanently. The steepness of mountain was all most for 10km. And we lost the count of time. I was just gritting my teeth, praying God to give me energy to complete that days parikrama. I felt it was impossible to climb that mountain. The height we were to climb and cross was 19000 ft. and that mountain called as Dolmala pass.

At that time I thought I have over estimated myself, and under estimated the toughest mountain trekking we were to do. In fact Ram wanted me to do the Parikrama on horse. But I felt if I do the parikrama on horse, what is the achievement I have done? So I have refused to listen to him. The snowfall, the steep rock mountain climbing, and cold, lack of oxygen and the layers of clothing made me so heavy, I thought even to put a step FW was like lifting 1000kg! OMG I never felt like that. I tell you it was a sort of physical torture. Then suddenly the climbing is over and Mount Kailash was in front of us so near as if we were looking into the eyes of the Lord Shiva.

OMG, it was breath taking. So beautiful so sacred I loved that moment and forgotten all the physical torture I under went. I had every thing to do pooja to Lord Shiva with me and I did pooja and gave Harathi to Lord Shiva looking into his eyes. I felt very happy. Then we had our lunch, I did take my energy bar and gave my lunch pack to Ram. Then started our FW Journey. And it was supposed to be 3 km climbing down, but I tell you it is more than 6km. And it was just like sudden fall and very steep. And many people started crawling down the mountain. But myself and Ram with the help of sticks started slowly climbing down. It was as difficult as the climbing up. And the snow fall did not stop even though it was not as thick as while we were climbing the mountain.

We came to a place where there was a small lake called Gourikund but the waters were frozen. That is the place where Gouridevi comes and takes her bath. As it was frozen we did not dare to go inside, but one porter gone there and brought us water so that all of us took a little as theertham and distributed among us to take to our homes.

Then it was 10 Km walking on the mountains of ups and downs but not that dangerous. As I said we have lost count of time. Just were going on walking. It became dark. We had torch lights with us. So with the help of torch lights and with the help of the porter we have reached our next camping site at about 12 midnight to a place called Zuthulpuk. So on that day we have done of trckking for 30km on mountains and climbed and crossed through 19,000ft height mountain.

As usual the Sherpa kept the food ready but no one was in a mood to eat. I just collapsed in the tent. Here all were tents. No constructed rooms. So you people can imagine the cold we must have suffered. But as far as I am concerned I have lost all sensations. As if I was given anesthesia, just gone to sleep even without removing my shoes.

The third day of our Parikram started a little late on our 12th day of the tour. In fact it was very difficult for me even to get up. But In one way I was also excited because the toughest part of our Parikrama was over and we will be in the last leg of our Parikrama. And whole team was in happy mood because on that day the parikrama was coming to an end and I tell you it was as equal to climbing Mount Everest, so you can imagine the happiness we were feeling.

The Sherpas provided us with breakfast; Ram said now that we are coming to the end I can have my breakfast. But I said till I see some good rest room there was no question of me having proper food. So I had my energy bar and the tabs. By about 7am we started the last leg of Parikrama.

The wind was cold but the skies were clear and no snow. But the fatigue, not having bath for the last few days was making me feel not so good. But emotionally as I was on high spirits that was giving me strength to walk FW. They said it was 6 Km walk and I was sure it was more than that. So in a way I was mentally prepared to walk more than 6km. The mountains were rocky and no road. But they were not dangerous. As all most we were coming down even though we were climbing some mountains it was not as tough as the second day parikrama. By about 1.00 pm we have reached a place called DIGRAPH... Where the Land cruisers were waiting for us. And the whole team members who ever were coming being given a very warm welcome. And we were not the last but we were not the first ones to reach the destination. So as soon as the team people saw us gave us very warm welcome and every one were hugging each other, congratulating and every one was feeling as if we were celebrating a festival. It was wonderful feeling of achievement. This has to be experienced to understand.

Then by about 2.00pm all of us started our return journey. Again it took us three days to reach the Tibet china border of Friendship Bridge. As soon as we saw that Bridge, we felt as if the tour was over and every one started feeling sad. Because all of us have become so close to each other , as if we know one another for the last so many days. Then on 19th June we have reached Nepal. I have requested Ram to take me to Pasupathinath temple again, because the next day we were leaving for India and one more time I wanted to have the Darshan of Pasupathi nath. So we went to temple and had a very good Darshan. When we returned to Hotel every one was waiting for us. After we had our dinner all of us sat till late night and were exchanging addresses and experiences because none of us were in a mood to go to bed.

All of us were very much tiered but were also excited that after the successful trip will be going home and we had to share so many things with our near and dear ones. Then on 20th June evening we left Nepal for Home with full of happiness, satisfaction, and sweet memories...

Indu.